I knew something wasn’t right with the first peony I rushed to finish. Probably cutting a US 12 was excessive, but I was worried about it being too tight in the middle.
I read Tilly’s helpful post on getting the measurements right when picking the pattern size and started again.
I re-measured myself. I mulled over the finished garment sizes on the packet and measured the actual pattern pieces. The pattern wasn’t wrong – I was. I had even measured my waist incorrectly last time, so I was always destined to be well wrong.
I cut a new muslin – size 8 this time. Better, but still not quite right. I had stitched a seam allowance row along both of the back closures and then asked my husband to line them up and pin the back closed, to get a better idea of fit. I pinched, pinned, marked and unpinned. I used permanent marker to draw heavy lines along the new dart placements and then traced the markings back onto the pattern pieces. Gertie’s post on placement of darts and the shape of darts for flattering fit was very helpful. As was an old Threads article. I decided to put in a second under-bust dart rather than substantially altering the first dart. I also added a small dart in the armsye. after all that adjusting I was a bit worried about where the waist would sit, so I’ve added another 1.5cm of length, although it may be that what I really need to do is grade the waist back out at the seams. We’ll see.
This is the new pattern piece:
In unrelated news, this article about the importance of pressing *every* seam blew my mind.