Yesterday I commenced the first of the projects from the Colette book.
I’m sure I’m making this a lot more time consuming than it need be (or than a more advanced sewist might manage) but I’m trying to do everything ‘by th’book’ – may as well learn the rules properly before I break them. A bit like singing jazz.
So I made a muslin toile, used proper tailor’s tacks to mark the notations in the pattern, cut lining fabric and made adjustments to the pattern *before* cutting the fabric.
On the toile – thankfully, the fit of the skirt was pretty good and there wasn’t much adjustment to be made. I toyed with adding a waistband, as per Sarai’s tutorial here, but once I tried on the muslin I was happy enough without a waistband. The only thing that needed adjusting was the dart placement in the skirt back – and all that needed fixing was to add another centimetre to the length of the dart to help it sit more smoothly. Husband attested to this small change making the whole skirt look neater. After sewing the darts in the toile and checking the fit, I then made the same adjustments to the pattern piece.
This morning I started cutting out the pattern pieces. I am using a woollen suiting fabric, quite thick, for the skirt. Adding a lining to reduce itching. I will use the instructions from p144 of the Colette book for adding a free-hanging lining. I measured the lining pieces to hang just below the start of the skirt hem facing as you can see from the pictures below.
I’m hoping to finish the hem of the lining a bit like this lace-trimmed version from Sewaholic. I’ve made my scalloped hem template and everything’s cut & ready to go – all that’s left is to start sewing!